NEWTON: FASHION PROVOCATEUR

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    VOCE – 15 settembre 2016

    The exhibition displays  34  big format pictures, shot for the communication  campaigns  of Blumarine. Anna Molinari has cut the ribbon at the opening. Her account of the  partnership with the artist: from the fear of scandal to the worldwide success .

    Schermata 2016-09-16 alle 13.00.27

     

    CARPI- A young Monica Bellucci bride version, wearing a transparent teddy, a statuesque Nadja Auermann standing out with her flamingo legs on the Monte Carlo background, a sensual Carré Otis with a t-shirt and hot pants lying on a carpet of tabloids. These are only some of the 34 large-format photographs of the exhibition “Helmut Newton. A gun for hire” which opened last Saturday in the loggias of the Palazzo dei Pio Museums and will be exhibited until the 11 December (produced by the Municipality of Carpi and its Museums in collaboration with the Helmut Newton Foundation of Berlin and Blumarine and with the financial contribution of the Foundation CR carpi, Carpi Fashion System, Bper, Cmb and Unipol). Brilliant, irreverent, provocateur, sometimes misogynous and chauvinist: there are many definitions given in recent years to Helmut Newton, the German photographer who perhaps more than any other has changed the way of communicating in fashion. His photos are always (intentionally) exaggerated: in the cheeky sensuality, biting irony, eccentric femininity. This can be also seen in the pictures exhibited in Carpi which focus on a specific period of the prolific Newton’s career: the years of collaboration with Blumarine with many communication campaigns from 1993 to 1999. “We have chosen to dare” says Ms Anna Molinari “In fact his campaigns have had a resounding success and brought Blumarine skyrocketing.” Ms Molinari  immediately foresaw the added value of the shots of Newton, able to “mitigate” the romanticism of Blumarine dresses with a more eccentric and playfully provocative femininity. In the press conference, held the day before the official opening,  she also revealed some particular habits, manias and ironic provocations of the artist. “Many judge him a chauvinist who  has diminished  women’s value; on the contrary – the curator Luca Panaro explains- what emerges from his pictures is the image of a strong and fierce woman. The man, on the contrary has, in his shots, a marginal role, often performed by the photographer himself who appears in some pictures with an arm, a leg, a foot that fits the inevitable white sneakers”.
    The exhibition displays also 12 shots dedicated to the work of Newton for some other famous fashion designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Versace, some look-books and albums. Finally in one of the museum halls a video with interviews and testimonies about Newton’s figure. The Blumarine permanent exposition room too is set up with mannequins wearing the outfits reproduced in the pictures (Claudia Rosini)